Best known for its microbiome-based skin care, Gallinée first ventured into the supplements space in 2019, before it was acquired by Shiseido Europe in 2022.
In April, the brand launched a new Calming range comprising a serum formulated with a marine prebiotic complex and fermented oats (Calming Serum), and a supplement (Calm & Microbiome) made with an algae complex and a combination of “psychobiotics”.
According to data cited by Gallinée, 41% of the world’s population considered themselves to be stressed in 2021. Women, in particular, have a 1.66% greater risk of developing an anxiety disorder.
The consequences are not only psychological and can extend to other parts of the body, including the skin, which leads to increased sensitivity, inflammation, redness, and irritation.
Gallinée founder Marie Drago believes that a balanced microbiome is the key to healthy skin and a zen state of mind. The Calming range claims to act directly on the gut-brain-skin axis to soothe skin, improve mood, and boost overall long-term resilience.
“It’s a nice surprise to see how well-received our supplements have been. When we debuted the first supplement back then, it sold out very quickly. This month, two of the top five best-selling products on our website are supplements.
“Clearly, stress and its influence on the skin is a big topic at the moment, and consumers are aware that they not only need skin care products, but something that works on the inside as well. I think that inside out beauty is really the future of the beauty sector,” Drago told NutraIngredients-Asia.
Adding that the brand is only “at the start” of its supplement development, the French pharmacist-entrepreneur hopes to expand the line-up, particularly products that target inflammation and its different manifestations on the skin.
“There are many things we can do to help women across their lifespan, and there are huge opportunities in the anti-ageing market. We’ve got one anti-ageing supplement, but I have ideas for a lot more. Menopause is an emerging category that we are just scratching the surface of, especially when you think about it from the inside-out-beauty perspective.
“There is so much science that could still be developed to improve women’s health and feminine care, including vaginal health. For supplements to be efficient, it must be backed by clinical evidence. We are lacking efficacy studies on ingredients such as prebiotics. Unlike probiotics, there is much less research on prebiotics for the gut and the skin. The science needs to progress before more products can be launched.”
Another area with room for innovation is said to be delivery formats.
Currently, Gallinée’s supplements are in pill and tablet formats, which Drago said are associated more with drugs and medicine rather than beauty.
“I was at a trade show looking for new formats to make supplements a more pleasurable part of one’s beauty routine, but did not find any. The pill format is presently the best delivery system for my active ingredients, but it could be better.
“Although there are jelly and powder formats in the market, probiotics are not big fans of being heat-treated or squashed. We are still missing a delivery solution for supplements that would make them more interesting for beauty consumers.”
Capitalising on resources
Following the acquisition by Shiseido, Gallinée has been leveraging the access to the beauty giant’s research centres in Japan and Europe.
“I have been working together with scientists from the European innovation centre to select the ingredients used in our formulations. I’m very lucky to be able to work directly with probiotic manufacturers and not just supplement manufacturers. They opened their library of bacteria to me, and I can pick and choose what I need.
“Calm & Microbiome is heavily based on science literature, as well as all the discussions I’ve had with experts at numerous congresses that I’ve attended over the last few years,” Drago shared.
The Haematococcus pulvialis algae complex used in the supplement is clinically more potent than vitamin C, and a highly hydrating prebiotic.
It supplies the body with astaxanthin and essential nutrients to protect it from oxidative stress and reduce inflammation, while supporting mood balance and enhancing complexion.
Additionally, two highly concentrated varieties of the lactobacillus helveticus and bifidobacterium longum probiotics are applied to manage stress via the microbiome and gut-brain axis. The combination is said to reduce psychological stress by decreasing cortisol.
Presently, the main sales channels for Gallinée’s supplements is its website and online retail partners, such as LookFantastic and Cult Beauty.
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